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Applesauce for Chanukah
Paige Weisskirch, UC Master Food Preserver Online Program Volunteer
The festival of Chanukah, with its twinkling lights and spinning dreidels, has long been associated with traditional fried foods, like potato latkes and sufganiyot (filled donuts). Applesauce has long stood out as a beloved topping for crispy, golden potato and onion latkes. How did this fruity condiment become so intertwined with Chanukah celebrations, particularly in Eastern European Jewish diaspora communities?
The connection between apples and Chanukah is traced back to Eastern Europe, where apples were one of the few local fruits that kept throughout the winter. Many people, including Jewish families in these regions, would preserve apples in various forms to ensure a supply of fruit and a sweet treat during the cold months when fresh produce was scarce.
Apples also hold symbolic significance in Jewish tradition. In the Song of Songs, the apple tree is often said to be a metaphor for God's love and protection. This association may have contributed to the fruit's popularity during religious celebrations, even though the apple does not hold specific religious significance for Chanukah.
Applesauce gained popularity as a latke topping for several reasons, including availability, dietary laws, and taste. As mentioned earlier, apples were stored in the fall to be available during winter. Families could rely on having a cache of apples available for special meals or for baking. For much of history, people in Europe cooked with animal fat as opposed to vegetable oils. Jewish dietary law (i.e., keeping kosher) does not allow combining meat and dairy products in the same meal. Because of kosher dietary observance, foods fried in animal fat (like potato latkes) could not be served with the more typical of Eastern Europe, dairy-derived sour cream. In order to balance the taste and to be celebratory with a sweet, applesauce was added. Apples, as a fruit, are considered neutral (i.e., pareve), neither meat nor dairy, and can be eaten with either meat or dairy products. Finally, applesauce's sweet and tangy flavors are a delicious accompaniment to the savory latkes, elevating the humble potato pancake into something suitable for a celebration. Once vegetable oils became affordable and available in Europe, families began frying latkes in them, which allowed the use of sour cream as a topping.
While potato latkes are undoubtedly the star of the Chanukah table (along with sufganiyot, a type of jelly-filled donut, or buñuelos, a honey-topped fritter common in Sephardic communities that originated in Spain and is now a popular Mexican dessert), the choice of latke topping has sparked a friendly debate among Jewish families for generations. Now, applesauce and sour cream are the two main contenders, with regional and personal preferences playing a significant role in the selection. Admittedly, using both on one latke is not unheard of.
Making homemade applesauce is an ideal project for both beginner and experienced cooks alike. For novices, the process is straightforward and forgiving, allowing for creativity without the pressure of precision. Cooks can enjoy customizing flavors by experimenting with different apple varieties, traditional spices like cinnamon and nutmeg, or more exotic ingredients like citrus zests, cardamom, or rosemary for a unique twist. Homemade applesauce is not only fresher and more flavorful than store-bought versions but also allows you to control the sweetness and avoid artificial ingredients or preservatives. Additionally, homemade applesauce can be used in a variety of ways: served as a side dish with latkes during Chanukah, served alongside meats like pork chops or brisket, incorporated into baked goods like muffins and cakes, or enjoyed as a healthy snack on its own. This versatility makes it a delightful addition to any cook’s repertoire.
Applesauce is a great option for someone new to food preservation. It can be made shelf-stable through a variety of methods, including water bath canning, steam canning, and pressure canning. Choose a recipe developed for your preferred canning method to ensure your product is both delicious and safe. If that sounds intimidating, not to fret – applesauce can be frozen, too!
When making applesauce, selecting suitable apples is crucial. Sweet varieties, like Honeycrisp and Fuji, require little to no added sugar, while less sweet apples, such as Granny Smith or Pink Lady, may need some sweetening but add a welcome tartness to the final sauce. For a well-balanced flavor, consider combining different types of apples. Your local farmer’s market may offer regional varieties (Ludacrisp? or Rubaiyat?) that will add a nuanced flavor that cannot be found in commercial applesauce.
Preserving homemade applesauce has become a cherished tradition for many families. The process of making and preserving applesauce is simple, allowing for customization and the involvement of multiple generations in the kitchen. By making and preserving your own applesauce, you're not only creating a delicious accompaniment to your Chanukah latkes but also participating in a tradition that connects you to generations of Jewish families who have celebrated this festival of lights with the sweet taste of apples.
Here's a simple recipe for chunky applesauce perfect for the freezer from the National Center for Home Food Preservation.
(yields approximately 6 cups)
Ingredients:
- 4 lbs (1800 grams) mixed apples
- 1/2 cup (119 grams) water
- 1/4 cup granulated sugar (50 grams) (optional)
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon (optional)
- 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg (optional)
- ½ tsp of lemon juice (optional)
Instructions:
- Wash, peel, and core the apples. Cut them into 1-inch chunks.
- In a large pot, combine the apple chunks and water.
- Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce to low and simmer for 15-20 minutes, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the apples are tender but still hold their shape.
- Remove from heat and mash the apples to the desired consistency using a potato masher or the back of a spoon. For a smoother texture, you can use an immersion blender, but be cautious not to over-blend.
- Stir in sugar* (if using), and spices. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed.
* For this recipe you can substitute the sugar for other sweeteners to taste.
Freezer Preservation Method:
- Allow the applesauce to cool completely.
- Transfer the sauce to freezer-safe containers, leaving 1/2 inch of headspace for expansion. If using a freezer bag, remove as much air as possible before sealing.
- Label the containers with the contents and date.
- Freeze for up to 12 months.
To serve, thaw the applesauce in the refrigerator overnight. It can be enjoyed cold or gently reheated.
References:
Marks, G. (2010). Encyclopedia of jewish food. Wiley.
National Center for Home Food Preservation - National Center for Home Food Preservation. Applesauce - National Center for Home Food Preservation. (2015). https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can/canning-fruits-and-fruit-products/applesauce/
Steinberg, E. (2011, December 16). Talk of the table: The great topping debate. Moment Magazine. https://momentmag.com/talk-of-the-table-the-great-topping-debate/
Ways with applesauce. Penn State Extension. (2024, July 8). https://extension.psu.edu/ways-with-applesauce